3/10/2024 0 Comments Bmw low coolant lightMoney's tight, ya got to do, what ya got ta do. I felt so bad for the Tech, he had over half of the job done in the diagnosis and only got paid for 1/2 hr. The Torpedo heater is showing up Saturday morning, I'll post results when finished. These guys at Ganley BMW in the Cleveland, Ohio area are the best and one of the reasons why I will maintain my brand loyalty possibly for life. They put it all in my back seat then washed it up for me. They said OK and put it back together and set me up with a new OEM pump, Coolant and Wiper blades for both my Bimmers. I told them NO, I would put it on myself, as I did it on the Wife's last summer. When I got to the car the tech had it torn apart except for removing the pump. Now I was only quoted 1/2 hour labor for the diagnosis. we talked for a few and he ask if I wanted to see and to the shop we went. He quoted me $400 something, AAAHHH that hurts. After an hour or so, the service manager I was working with came over and told me I needed a new Water Pump. Got finished up with the paper work and grabbed my new Roundel and headed for the waiting area. Nope, the service manager had me bring it in the following day at 2:00. I called this Tuesday thinking I'll take it in next week and get one of their free loaners. So, with the weather in Northern Ohio over the last few weeks being snowy and averaging in the teens and lower 20s, I decided to call the Dealer. Trailer-ed it home swapped out the bad pump and belt and it's been fine ever since. And when the pump died, she was on the highway and got off at the first exit. From that experience I know it doesn't take much to get her hot if things aren't right. Then I remembered when I did the wives water pump, I had trouble bleeding the system. From some of the comments posted I sure had something to think about. But today I needed to go to a rough section of Cleveland. ![]() Currently I only drive a few miles to work and the least in over 20 years. Thanks, It was ironic that it happened yesterday at the end of the work day. Do you mean E30? E30s have a bunch of annoying things with the M20 (or M42) but the cooling system is not a particularly well known weak point. Some of the parts on the car were not from. So I did a cooling system overhaul, at 170 000km. Last year, I was having some issues loosing coolant and my coolant light was coming on. I do all of my own maintenance on my 330ci. It is just luck of the draw with the 330 vs your 323, however I don't know what a 30 325ic is- sorry. Alright, so let me start this off by saying I’m pretty mechanically inclined. You have to cross the pressure threshold. That is how I've been able to find multiple coolant leaks in E46s in the past. ![]() ![]() ![]() I'd suggest taking your car for a fairly hard drive, then quickly looking under the front bumper area while you have someone rev the car. It was a crack in the expansion tank that held and held, and at a certain pressure would just start gushing out almost like a blow off valve. No visible leak- but an occasional coolant level low. If you are not comfortable with working on the car then just follow the BMW bleeding directions - although I've found them inadequate for the occasional bimmer that had a stubborn air lock.That is the updated BMW part IIRC- if you get the right one off of Real OEM that is the same part you should get at the stealer/your parts guy/tischer.ģZHPGUY, I had the same thing last winter. I have no issues with running one of these with the cap off up to about 90C which the t-stat is already starting to open. Use common sense - if the coolant is scalding hot - don't open the ET cap - use the bleed screw. You want the t-stat to at least partially open during bleeding to ensure you have full circulation - also check that heat is coming in the cabin - cause if you are not getting any heat then you might have a jammed heater valve. Occasionally revving the engine to about 2500 RPM also helps the waterpump push the coolant through the secondary channel that feeds the heater core and heater hose lines.Įdit: Now the thermostat will be closed if you start bleeding on a cold engine. This is done easier with the front end raised, the heater valve open (heater on) and I usually have the ET Cap off for bleeding so the system can burp easily. You'll need to bleed the coolant system and top it off. When the engine is revved the coolant will evacuate the expansion tank triggering the low level light - when you shut the car off and go to check the coolant level the vaccuum fills the ET so the level looks ok. Read the post above yours - you likely have an air bubble in your coolant.
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